Jordon Pond House in Acadia National Park is one of Maine’s, truly really one of the Nation’s, most visited tourist attractions. But the day we visited it looked like a ghost town. The only thing missing were tumbleweeds blowing across the lawn, which is usually filled to capacity with tourists enjoying the sunshine at shiny green picnic tables while bustling exchange students from all over the globe deliver tea and popovers. The filled to capacity parking lots were nearly empty, and the hive of activity at the shop and reservation stations, empty of any other human being but ourselves. We saw a few groups hikers heading out onto the carriage paths or returning from a hike, but the overwhelming experience was the total silence, and emptiness of a place usually filled to bursting.
So we recently visited Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor and would like to share what we experienced It was the most “normal day” we’d had in 3 months. Our last dinner out (although people were socially distanced at the tables even then) was on March 14th. The next day restaurants in the Massachusetts town where we ate were closed and have yet to open to full capacity indoor dining. Three months later my husband and I had an almost “normal” day during a visit to Acadia National park. But really, nothing about it was normal.
Here’s what was normal.
We put on sun screen and cruised up to Acadia National Park in our Mini convertible. We drove the Park Loop Road, cruised up to Cadillac Mountain and relaxed on Sand Beach for a few minutes. We parked at one of our favorite hiking/biking trails, and did a 4 mile hike up and around the lovely Hadlock ponds. We drove a few miles past the Brown Mountain Gate and set out our camp chairs in the shore of Seal Cove for an hour.
Then we drove into Bar Harbor we enjoyed a drink at the Social Project one of our favorite bars for inventive cocktails and small plates and then enjoyed dinner at Stewman’s with a view to the Porcupine Islands in the harbor. After dinner we strolled up the hill and bought fudge to bring home and an ice cream cone from Ben and Bill’s which we enjoyed on a bench in Argamont Park over looking the marina.
If that was all I told you, you’d believe it was a normal day visiting one of our nations most popular national parks and tourist areas during their busiest season. We’ve done a similar “itinerary” dozens of times for over 30 years, but this time it was like nothing approaching “normal”. I’ll detail step by step what made it so different during this global pandemic.
Safely traveling to Maine
Late June is lupine season in Maine, you’ll see them growing along roadsides and in fields, but they aren’t native, and neither are we!
Before we could travel from Massachusetts to Maine, we were required to quarantine for two weeks. The Governor of Maine recently changed those rules to include a testing option for visitors planning to stay less than two weeks. Things are changing constantly, so check your destination before you leave. (See Up to date rules can be found here)
Be prepared to encounter some resistance to out of state visitors. Many residents feel the afraid of the risk visitors bring to them from pandemic areas. Right now when we drive around with a MA plate and it can incite fear for some locals (and there have been sporadic reports of car vandalism to cars with out of state plates) so we decided to have a friend create a car window sticker for us that shows we have quarantined. Covid life style changes have become routine for us. We are still practicing them now; masking, maintaining social distance, choosing activities that are low risk, even after we’ve safely quarantined in Maine for our 2 weeks
If you decide to visit Maine (or Vt or NH which are all open to eachother as of this report) be sure to check the latest rules. You may be made to sign an affidavit at your lodging. In talking anecdotally with friends booking private lodging and campgrounds, responses of the owners/managers vary. Some places are telling people “you just have to sign a paper” while de-emphasizing quarantine and testing rules. But remember, by make it easier for you to visit them, they are transferring the risk to you, the risk you’ll get sick from someone else who they’ve been cavalier about, and the risk that if you get sick and share it with anyone else at the accommodation, you have signed a legal document that makes you liable if you didn’t tell the truth about testing or quarantine.
Visiting Acadia National Park
(For the latest National Park information click here)
Park Loop Road and Attractions
We’ve never seen the park so empty. One in every 20 cars had an out of state plate. There was parking anywhere you wanted to park, trail heads, downtown, even at Jordan pond House, where two years ago I circled for 30 minutes after dropping off my aunties before I could find a spot. The Jordan Pond House was open for limited hours during the day for take out when we visited, but wasn’t open at the time we were there. You do have to have a park pass to enter, and entry points were staffed with masked rangers!! But not those kind of rangers- Park Rangers!
Take out menu and social distancing marks indicated that it was not business as usual in Acadia National Park
Photos from the major attractions along the Park Loop Road (hover over the photo to see the caption)
Beaches
Beach parking was easier than usual, whereas normally we need to be strategic about the time of day to even hope to find a parking spot. Lots of locals had brought their kids for a dip on the unusual 88 degree day we visited in June! Everyone was careful to social distance, which is easy at a beach that isn’t crowded.
Sand Beach on the Loop Drive is known for being notoriously cold and difficult to find parking, we had no trouble with anything but the cold!
Most of the flush toilet “bath houses” are closed to the public when the facility or attraction is not staffed. Usually there will be port a potties in the areas where running water facilities are closed, so plan accordingly. The bath house facilities were open at Sand Beach and Cadillac Mountain when we visited.
The town beach at Seal Harbor
Hiking
The trails were so empty that social distancing was not a problem. We were utterly alone except for passing 2 or 3 groups of hikers over a 2 hour hike on a 12 foot wide carriage trail. Bikes were still excluded during our visits, but check the website for up to date information. Trail Head composting bath rooms are still open. Obviously, it will be harder to social distance on narrower wooded trails than on the wide carriage paths. In addition to carrying our water, we always carry our masks so that if we should encounter anyone or need emergency assistance we keep those around us safe.
Visiting Bar Harbor
Parking
We had no trouble finding parking on the street or in the public lots anywhere. However, a recent change is the parking is all pay station or metered.
Shops and Sidewalks and Activities in Town
As we drove into town we were shocked at the number of restaurants boarded up, especially at the end of town away from the water. Even places that have a generous outdoor area, were still buttoned up at a time we’d expect them to be bustling. (Mid June on a Friday night) However, I was impressed with what we experienced in Covid 19 safety rules. All of the employees were masked in every restaurant or store we peeked into. (We decided not to risk going into shops.) Patrons were wearing masks many times on the streets and at all times entering shops and restaurants, except when eating.
There were no cruise ships, but in port we saw a kayaking tour headed to the harbor socially distanced to get to the boats. On our second weekend, we saw group boat tours headed out for their sunset cruises but no crowds in the sidewalks. With so few cars people crossed or walked in the roads to avoid meeting people in the sidewalks.
Inns and Restaurants
We noted the closed restaurants, maybe owners choosing to wait till full opening of the state before opening their doors, or possibly they won’t or can’t open at all. Many tourist destinations rely on out of state and foreign workers. Many businesses can ill afford to pay to quarantine a seasonal work force, if they can even travel here. I’ll visit again in mid summer and see if more establishments are opening.
The Inns had lots of outdoor dining and it looked like some guests on their balconies enjoying the ocean views. None of the properties we passed that were open advertised “No Vacancy”
For dining, we noticed that all the rules we read about were followed. Careful disinfecting, masks for employees, paper or disinfected menus, tables distanced, and one time use condiments. We even noticed staff carefully disinfect a table after a group left within seconds to pick another with more shade. We enjoyed a cocktail at Social Project where all the dining was outside in the garden of an inn located on the same property. Tables were more than 6 feet apart and servers were masked. We ate dinner at Stewman’s outside on the deck as we always do. We were very impressed by how seriously the people running inns and restaurants in Bar Harbor were following the regulations for safe visits, and keeping workers safe.
All of the people who welcome tourists wanted to make sure people know they are “Open for Business”, even while they wish to protect their rural communities from the pandemic. The delicate balance of “open” and “safe” is one we will all be facing for a while longer. We witnessed safety rules being followed by both guests and hosts and we had an incredible, if not completely “normal” visit. But if “abnormal” meaning fewer crowds and open reservations appeals to you, it might be a good time for a vacation near one of our Nations most popular National Parks!